142. Wagner, Philip M[arshall] (1904-1996). American Wines and How to Make Them. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1933. Printed by the Plimpton Press, Norwood, MA. 19.5 cm. (13), 295, xix index, (2) colophon pages + foldout "synopsis of wine-making" at front. Bibliography pages 291-295. Inscribed on first blank endpaper: "Eberhard S. Buehler. Thirty-two years late! Philip Wagner. 27 Aug 1965." Green cloth, paper labels on cover and spine. Extremely poor condition. Covers water damaged and warped, labels gone, internally stained, mostly in gutter. Printing itself is clean enough to make reading not too great a chore.  

First edition. In his easygoing, easy-reading style, Wagner devotes the first hundred pages to a historical background on wine, especially in the US, devoting a full chapter to California. Then he goes on to his main topic, which is wine-making. He adds a brief appendix on grape districts of the US. Viticulture as such, he says, is well represented in the existing literature – Hedrick, Munson, Husmann. "My purpose in writing this book is to lay before the domestic winemaker the elements of the art. The book is in no sense original. I have … spurned the allurements of novelty. Originality in wine-making, save by a Pasteur, is always suspect …" [preface]. Parts of chapters 2 and 3 had appeared originally in Mencken's American Mercury. It was no doubt his years with Mencken on the Baltimore Evening Sun, and later as editor of that venerable newspaper himself, that perfected his writing skills. For more information on Wagner and his books, see Gabler pages 295-96.

The occasion of the inscription was a very pleasant visit with Mr. Wagner at his place in Towson, MD. I remember sitting on the porch and talking mostly about wine books, and about his wine, the white variety of which was on tap at that time – like beer – at Haussner's restaurant in Baltimore, where we tried it with dinner that night. It was pétillant, almost a sparkling wine, and it was delicious.

143. Wagner, Philip M[arshall] (1904-1996). American Wines and How to Make Them. Second edition revised, with two additional chapters. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1936. Printed by the Plimpton Press, Norwood, MA. 19.5 cm. (13), 367, xvi index, (2) colophon pages + foldout "synopsis of wine-making" at end. Bibliography pages 363-367. Ownership signature on front pastedown. Green cloth, paper labels on cover and spine. Spine faded.

First printing of the second edition. From the preface, dated at Riderwood, Maryland, May 9, 1934: "This edition differs from its predecessor principally in possessing two more chapters, one on sparkling wines and another on sweet wines … written in response to … demand … … Another word: Because this book was written before the repeal of the Eighteenth Amendment, it naturally contains many references, mostly slighting, to Prohibition … … they do not interfere with the text, and already they begin to have a certain historical interest. With time they should gain considerably in piquancy."

144. Wagner, Philip M[arshall] (1904-1996). A Wine-Grower's Guide. Containing chapters on the past and future of wine-growing in America, the management of a vineyard, and the choice of suitable wine-grape varieties. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1945. Printed by the Plimpton Press, Norwood, MA. 22 cm. (2), x, 230, xi index, (1) colophon pages + 2 foldout grape maps and 7 glossy photo plates. Illustrations. Bibliography pages 228-230. Decorative border on title page. Ownership signature on endpaper: "Darwin Charles Brown." Pale tan cloth, titles in green and red. Front cover shows some soiling. Chipped and worn dustjacket. Internally clean.  

First edition. An excellent review of the history of grape-growing in the US, and its current status, both in California and the East. There are grape-growing maps for California, and for all of the US, and annotated lists of suitable varieties, including French hybrids, for various locations. As usual, Wagner shows his way with words. Foreign grape varieties are called immigrant varieties, diseases or maladies of the vine are called ailments. Throughout, Wagner offers good practical advice and instruction for would-be grape farmers. In discussing the work of Munson, he makes an interesting statement (in a footnote): "Munson's career is a striking illustration of both the strength and the weakness of private as opposed to institutional research. No institution could have approached this work with the enthusiasm and imagination that he displayed. Yet already many of his innovations are lost to posterity, and his irreplaceable varietal vineyards are long since abandoned and forgotten." [page 35]. In the California chapter, he says that "the possibilities of California are still only partly explored. The small grower who studies the varietal question carefully … [and has] an impulse to experiment, can … provide for himself, or for the market, wines which fall into none of the easy present categories but are peculiarly his own." [57-58]. Much, of course, has happened along that line since 1945, but there's probably room for more.

From Wagner's obituary notice in Contemporary Authors, vol. 102: "Born February 18, 1904, in New Haven CT; died of emphysema and heart failure, December 29, 1996, in Riderwood, MD. Newspaper editor and winemaker. Wagner had large shoes to fill when he took over as editorial page editor at the Baltimore Evening Sun in 1938, succeeding the legendary H.L. Mencken. Wagner attributed his success in journalism to his hobby, winemaking, which relaxed him. He grew up in Ann Arbor, Michigan, where his father taught at the University of Michigan, and graduated from there in 1925. After graduation, he freelanced for The New Republic, Harper's and the Atlantic while working in the publicity department at General Electric. He was hired by the Baltimore Evening Sun in 1930 as an editorial writer, served as London correspondent for a few years and took over the editorial page in 1938 when Mencken left the post … Wagner balanced his time between journalism and winemaking, selling his vineyard only in 1980." In 1940 Wagner married Jocelyn McDonough, his vineyard companion. His first marriage had been to Helen Crocker in 1925.

145. Ward, Artemas (1848-1925) (compiler). The Grocer's Handbook and Directory for 1883. Compiled by Artemas Ward, editor of "The Philadelphia Grocer." Price - - $2.00. Philadelphia: Philadelphia Grocer Publishing Co, (1882). 21 cm. Title leaf, 9-305 pages + frontispiece and 6 other color plates. Eight additional color plates are included in the pagination, as are four b&w plates. Text illustrations. Pebbled brown cloth, corners scuffed, extremities of spine chipped, binding loose.

A dictionary of food and beverages, including long articles on coffee and tea, and a three-page entry for wine. Apparently the first edition and a rather scarce item. Noling (page 432) and Bitting (page 484) have only the 1886 edition which Bitting identifies as a reprint of the first edition.

Born in New York City, Ward was the great-grandson of a general of the American army in the revolutionary war. In 1874 he moved to Philadelphia, where he founded the Philadelphia Grocer, of which he was owner, editor and publisher. This won him wide recognition in the grocery trade, and he became general manager in 1885 of Enoch Morgan Sons, makers of "Sapolio," which became a household word and brought him wealth and fame. Among his many enterprises were the furnishing of slot machines and newstands for the New York City transit system, ownership of the King Motor Car Company of Detroit, a 3000-acre dairy farm in Orange County, NY and a thousand-acre apple orchard in Virginia. Deeply interested in American history, he published The Life of Artemas Ward, the First Commander-in-Chief of the American Revolution (1921). His Encyclopedia of Foods was published in 1923. He left an estate of several million dollars to Harvard University. [The National Cyclopaedia of American Biography, vol. 20, 1929].

146. Wasserman, Sheldon (1940-1992). The Wines of Italy. A consumer's guide. New York: Stein and Day / Publishers, (1976). 24 cm. 227 pages. Maps. Mauve boards, light green cloth back, gilt lettering. Illustrated, lightly worn dustjacket.  

First published in 1976. On dustjacket: "7/76." As recently as 1976, Italian wines were relatively unknown in the US and thus this remark: "We don't say ‘a great Italian opera,’ so let's not say ‘a great Italian wine,’ but simply a great wine, without qualifier." Interesting typo: Rülander for Ruländer, throughout; interesting dedication: "Mogliettina Mia." He explains in the acknowledgements: "And last, but not least (except for the aspect of size), I'd like to thank my little wife … she has added her touch to the book, which I think has added a lot."

Born December 17, 1940, in Boston, Wasserman married Pauline MacKenzie (a writer) in 1963. He spent the earlier part of his career as a computer systems analyst. This book was followed by a number of wine books written with his wife, including: The Wines of the Côtes du Rhône (1977), White Wines of the World (1978), Guide to Fortified WInes (1983), Sparkling Wine (1984), Italy's Noble Red Wines (1985). Wasserman died March 24, 1992, in Lyons, NJ.

147. Wassermann, Adeline. The Schenley Library Bibliography. 1946. Compiled by Adeline Wassermann, Librarian, and Staff Members. New York: Schenley Distillers Corporation, 1946. 22 cm. (7), 98 pages. Stapled pamphlet, with stiff, decorated dark green covers. Covers water-damaged. Internally rippled, but clean enough for reference.  

A briefly annotated list of the Schenley library. About a third of the entries are on alcoholic beverages and related subjects.

148. Waugh, Evelyn [Arthur St. John] (1903-1966). Wine in Peace and War. With decorations by Rex Whistler. London: Saccone & Speed, n.d. Printed by Welbecson Press, London. 22.5 cm. 77, (1) pages. The first page of each of two chapters is decoratively illustrated in color by Whistler. Paper-covered boards have title repeated on front and back cover, decorated by Whistler. Covers warped from water damage, and waterstaining on spine and edges. Endpapers are stuck to covers. Internally clean, but one leaf ("Part 1" title) has some holes, not affecting text, and binding is coming apart. Actually in rather poor condition.  

Part 1 presents the story of Saccone & Speed, from the time when they were two rival companies, both in the business of supplying the needs of His Majesty's naval vessels. "On one occasion … Mr. Saccone's man was on board a man-of-war arranging his business when Mr. Speed's man was observed coming aboard. Mr. Saccone's man persuaded the seaman swabbing the deck to turn his hose on the rival vintner." [page 23]. They eventually made peace and formed a union in 1908, and by 1914 enjoyed a virtual monopoly as suppliers of wines and spirits to the Royal Navy. During the postwar scarcity, they continued to sell to their old customers at the old prices. Some women drew their absent husband's allowance "and carried it straight to the auctioneers. [One] asked her wine merchant to perform this task for her and ‘send her a cheque for the difference’." [32]. In part 2, which is about wine, there are some strong hints of snobbism. A Bordeaux wine waiter with a dislike for wine turns out to have an exceptional nose and is able to identify everything that he has ever sniffed, by château and year. "He was like a sanitary inspector smelling drains. This eminent wretch should be a warning to us and a consolation when we have been humiliated … in some test of discernment." [39]. Or, how about this, occasioned by a visit with the people of the Guiana bush country, who had treated him to Kassiri: "The simple truth is that most savages are very heavy drinkers. The liquor which the trader brings is a far healthier product than their own." [43-44]. Spirits, in general, he regards as medicinal. "[Gin] should be liberally quaffed at all official gatherings where the guests are obliged to be cordial to people they never wish to see again … Whisky is said to have been introduced into England by … Scottish doctors … [who] invested their money in distillery shares. They prescribed it as an alternative to wine … [Rum] is a sadly neglected drink. Its tonic properties are unequalled … The apotheosis of medicinal drinking is the cocktail …" [46-47]. Waugh runs through the wine country – Champagne, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Sherry, Port, to the last of which he devotes the most space [61-68]. As for German wines, he wonders if we'll ever drink good hock again. The Rheingau and Moselle had "at the time of writing fallen under French rule, and rumour, too well supported to be dismissed, has it that the occupying power intends to exterminate a hated rival. If this proves true it will be an insupportable loss to the wine-lover for the greatest German wines were among the greatest in the world." [68]. Of other wines of the world, his advice is: "When travelling drink the wine of the country. At home, in the United States or England, stick to the classics." [71]. As to books on wine, his favorite appears to be The Complete Wine Book, by Schoonmaker and Marvel, which he mentions twice. [55, 73].

On a visit to Saccone & Speed in 1969, one of the staff there guessed that the date of this book was 1949-50, and that about 2500 copies were printed. I have also seen the date listed as 1947, which seems more likely than 1949, in view of the statement on the German vineyards quoted above. The Dictionary of National Biography has a good bio-bibliographical summary. It contains, understandably, no mention of this particular work.

149. White, Edward Skeate. The Maltster's Guide; being a history of the art of malting from the earliest ages. Also, a description of the various systems of malting, &c. &c., the construction of malthouses, and an abstract of the whole of the malt laws. London: W.R. Loftus, 1860. 17.5 cm. iv, (1), 10-236, (2) pages. Illustrations. Brown embossed cloth, gilt title on cover. Covers water-damaged, soiled and warped. Internally clean, with rippling throughout.  

A detailed historical treatise on this important aspect of the brewer's art.

150. Whitfield, W.C. (compiler). Here's How. Mixed Drinks. Decorated by Tad Shell. Asheville, NC: Three Mountaineers, Inc., (1941). 24 cm. (3), 6-76, (1) pages. Illustrations. Stapled, hole-punched paper, between 6-mm-thick plywood boards with scalloped edges and punched holes. Front board has painted illustration and hinges for opening. The leather thong that tied the boards together is gone. Black waterstains around hinges of front board, and waterstaining also on front and back paper covers, and some more at top edge of remaining pages, which are rippled as well. Poor wretched book would probably feel more at home with the firewater behind a bar.  

©1941. Some cocktail recipes are included in this collection of mixed drinks, although the publishers say they had "previously devoted a whole book to this rich subject (see ‘Just Cocktails,’ published in October, 1939). In this book we covered the whole field of this most American of all drinks thoroughly and completely. (Over 350 were listed.)" [page 51].

151. Wickson, Edward J[ames] (1848-1923). The California Fruits and How to Grow Them. A manual of methods which have yielded greatest success; with lists of varieties best adapted to the different districts of the state. First Edition. San Francisco: Dewey & Co., proprietors Pacific Rural Press, 1889. 22.5 cm. 575, (17 advertising) pages + frontispiece color plate of Washington Navel orange, and 13 b&w photo plates. Illustrations. Bookplate on front pastedown of Library Company of Philadelphia, dated 5.14.90. The library's embossed stamp appears on title page and elsewhere. Decorated endpapers. Dark green cloth, gilt title on spine. Covers waterstained and bowed. Internal rippling, hinges cracking, and waterstaining mostly at right central margin. I guess I'd have to call it a poor copy, but it is a first edition and it will do as a reference copy.  

This book was written to fill a California need: "The excellent works of eastern and foreign authors are of but indirect value because our soils and climates render their advice and suggestions for practice in many respects inapplicable, and the varieties of fruit which they commend are often ill suited to our conditions." [preface]. Wickson devotes a whole section of the book to the grape [pages 356-394]. He provides some historical background, followed by advice and information on propagation, grafting, planting, pruning, training, vine diseases, and a chapter on grape varieties. He says that indigenous Eastern varieties and hybrids have been introduced in California, but that "their growth for table fruit is almost of insignificant proportions, and does not constitute even a respectable fraction of one per cent of our grape area. The popular taste decidedly prefers the vinifera varieties." [392]. See Amerine #3639-41 for this and later editions. Editions I have seen listed are the 2nd of 1891, 3rd 1900, 4th 1908, 5th 1910, 6th 1912, 7th 1914, 8th 1919, 10th 1926.

Wickson was born in Rochester, NY, graduated from Hamilton College in 1869 and worked for a Utica newspaper before moving to San Francisco's Pacific Rural Press. He was a founder of of the California State Horticultural Society (1879), at which time he also became associated with the University of California, where in 1905 he was appointed dean of the College of Agriculture and professor of horticulture. He did not see eye to eye with the university's more aggressive vision of agricultural research and in 1912 was eased out as director, and "he retired to the professorship of horticulture with a serenity fortified by the widespread prestige which he enjoyed with rural Californians. His book … was the law and the gospel of the little fruitgrower as well as the large one … Others of his farm books were much used …" [Dictionary of American Biography, vol. 20, 1936].

152. Wiley, Harvey W[ashington] (1844-1930). Beverages and Their Adulteration. Origin, composition, manufacture, natural artificial, fermented, distilled, alkaloidal and fruit juices. By Harvey W. Wiley, M.D., author of "Foods and their Adulteration." With 42 illustrations. Philadelphia: P. Blakiston's Son & Co., (1919). The Maple Press, York, PA. 24 cm. (2), v-xv, 421 pages + 2 plates of tea leaves. Maps, photos and other illustrations. Brown cloth, gilt title on spine. Extensively water-damaged and waterstained throughout, with covers badly warped and internal rippling. Very poor, at best a reference copy.  

An extensive treatise on the beverages of the world, both non-alcoholic (waters, mineral waters, soft drinks, fruit juices, coffee, tea, cocoa and chocolate) and alcoholic (wine, beer, whiskey, brandy, rum, gin, cordials and liqueurs, alcoholic remedies), and finally beverages containing cocaine. A long chapter on wine covers American, French and other European wines [pages 180-260]. For Bordeaux, there is an annotated list of all the châteaux of the 1855 classification. Even cocktails and mixed drinks are given a few pages [390-395]. Also of interest is the timing of the book's publication – on the eve of Prohibition.

Wiley's studies were interrupted by his participation in the Civil War, and he ultimately earned his MD at Indiana Medical College in 1871. He was Purdue University's first professor of chemistry from 1874 to 1883, when he was appointed chief chemist in the US Department of Agriculture, working mainly on analysis of foods. However, his main interest was in improving purity and reducing food adulterations, and despite many obstacles his efforts led to the Pure Food and Drug Act of 1906. Because of conflicts over its enforcement, Wiley resigned in 1912, hoping to continue his pure food crusade as a private citizen. "Moreover, he needed more income because in February 1911, at age sixty-six, he had married Anna Campbell Kelton, thirty-three, and the next year the first of their two sons would be born. In 1912, at twice his government salary, Wiley became director of the Bureau of Foods, Sanitation, and Health for William Randolph Hearst's magazine Good Housekeeping, a position he retained until the year of his death." [American National Biography, 1999, and Chambers Biographical Dictionary, 1997]. Wiley wrote a number of books on foods and beverages (1895-1930), including American Wines at the Paris Exposition of 1900 (1903).

153. (Wine and Food). Wine and Food. A Gastronomical Quarterly, edited by André L. Simon. Numbers 1 to 118, Spring 1934 to Summer 1963, missing four numbers – 82 & 83 (Summer & Autumn 1954) and 91 & 92 (Autumn & Winter 1956). Published for the Wine and Food Society by Simpkin Marshall, 1934. [Published for the Wine and Food Society by The Field Press (1930) Ltd., 1935-1941]. [Published by the Wine and Food Society, 1942 to #115 Autumn 1962]. [Published in conjunction with the Wine and Food Society by Wine & Food Publications (Condé Nast), #117 & 118, Spring & Summer 1963]. London: 1934-1963. Printed at the Curwen Press. 22.5 (to 1941) and 21.5 cm. [1934-1937]: 79-102 pages + 14-22 pages of ads each issue; [1938-1963]: 210-456 pages each year + a number of ad pages each issue. The fattest year was 1938, the leanest 1941. Number 28 has viii pages of index to articles by author (#1-28) and number 80 has xv pages of index for #1-80. Number 100 has iv pages of index for #81-100. Illustrations. Condition varies from very poor to acceptable. In general the contents are clean, although there is damp rippling throughout, from minor to major. The first 12 issues all have water-damaged covers, with chips and tears, with #12 showing internal damage as well. Some of the earlier issues also have gutter staining. Number 25 is very very poor, #26 poor, and #27 not quite as bad. Some issues are quite clean and show only minor rippling (e.g. 1937 & 1938). In general, the covers and some advertising pages bore the brunt of the damage, so that one good option might be to do a binding without the covers. In any case, all issues are complete and the text is mostly clean. More detailed information can be provided for specific numbers, but they are for sale as a complete set only.  

This ground-breaking wine quarterly was a labor of love on the part of André Simon. Although both he and A.J.A. Symons jointly founded the Wine and Food Society, Simon organized the dinners and was editor of this, its quarterly magazine, through most of its – and much of his – life. A.J.A. Symons' obituary, written by Simon, appeared in the Autumn 1941 issue (#31), and more tributes to "Ayjay" followed in issues 32 and 35. In the first issue, Simon said that the first object of the society was to raise the standard of cooking in the country, a subject that was close to his heart from the time he arrived in England from France quite a few years earlier. An equally important goal of the society was to raise the level of awareness and appreciation of wine, which was accomplished partly through the publication of more books on wine – Simon on Port, Gwynn on Burgundy, Rudd on Hocks & Moselles, Berry's In Search of Wine, and many more. Almost every issue of Wine & Food saw a review of a book or two on wine as well as food. Simon carried his campaign to the US and in the Autumn 1935 number, the listing of Wine & Food Society chapters included New York, San Francisco and Los Angeles. Itineraries of Simon's trips to the US over the years were recorded in Wine and Food. About his whirlwind tour of the US in 1946, Simon reports that he was "none the worse for those five weeks during which my American friends had done their best to kill me with kindness." [#51]. The progress of the Society in other parts of the world as well can be traced in the reports of the activities of the various branches. By dint of perseverance, Simon was able to keep the flame of gastronomy alive even during the war years. In some of the early war years there is a note, almost of envy, of the Americans who were still enjoying the good life until Pearl Harbor finally ended it. The last issue of 1941 (#32) had a review of the Complete Wine Book by Schoonmaker and Marvel. In 1940, Grossman had published his Guide to Wines, Spirits …, reviewed in the Winter 1940 issue, together with Healy's Stay Me With Flagons, the plates of which were destroyed in a bombing raid, and which was the last of English wine books until after the war. In 1942, Tom Marvel wrote a letter in defense of vitis labrusca (#35). Lt. Amerine wrote a letter from Algiers in 1944, taking advantage of his stopover to report on the vineyards [#41].

In addition to the many, many reviews of wine books in these pages, not to mention contributions by writers well known to collectors, there is also a useful checklist of "English and American Books on Wine, Wine Glasses and Vessels" [#41, 1944, pages 52-68]. Obituaries of writers on wine include Frank Gray Griswold [#14-1937] by Simon, Edward Bunyard [#24-1939] by Healy, Maurice Healy [#38-1943] by Simon, and Crosby Gaige [#62-1949]. Also reprinted in the quarterly are a few previously published writings, such as Belloc's An Heroic Poem in Praise of Wine [#8-1935], and Longfellow's Catawba Wine [#36-1942]. All aspects of wine and food, in fact, are well represented through reports on dinner menus, interesting foods, wine areas off the beaten trail. A few articles that caught my eye: report on a Moselle tasting [#2-1934], ten articles on the sausage in one issue [#32-1941], account of a visit, shortly after World War One, to a Warsaw restaurant that had California wine from the Spanish Mission period, some 150 years old [#61-1949]. Among articles in issues not covered by the indexes [#101-118], there are two more by Warner Allen, and three by Roy Brady, one on "Old Madeira," another a review of the Tadich Grill in San Francisco.

In 1963, because of financial constraints, Wine and Food was turned over to Condé Nast Publications. The same format, with added illustrations, was retained for the first two issues of 1963, and a new one adopted with issue #119. After another change to a new larger format with issue 135, in mid-1967, it continued publication through issue number 149 (July 1970), shortly before Simon's death. The old order, with its gracious wine dinners had primed the wine sluices for the new order, with its more aggressive, market-oriented and ever more high-tech wine and food experiences.

154. [Wine List]. Bremer Ratskeller. (Bremen): (1959). 31.5 cm. (24) pages. Each page has a decorative border (grape motif) and is headed by an illustration of a vineyard area of the wines listed on that page. Printed on thick paper. Illustrated paper covers. Covers soiled, some waterstaining on last page and back cover.  

Only German wines are served at this ultimate wine bar. The first two pages have a German wine map and a general summary of the wine list and the wine regions represented. The list is in two sections, the first listing more common wines, the second listing old and more recent wine treasures. The first section lists 55 Rhine wines, 5 Franconian, 5 Württemberg and Baden, 53 Mosel, 6 red wines, 20 sparkling. The earliest vintage listed in the second section ("Treasure Chamber") is 1727 (1 wine), followed by 1889, 1893, 1895, 1897 (I each), 1900 (2), 1904, 1909 (1 each), 1911 (5), 1915 (4), 1920 (6), 1921 (7), 1922, 1925, 1933 (1 each), 1934 (7), 1935 (1), 1937 (8), 1945 (5), 1946 (2), 1947 (5), 1949 (13), 1950 (4), 1953 (31). The 1727 was sold by the glass for 3 marks [about 75 cents at that time], with the caveat that it was of interest only for its rarity. The most expensive wine listed was a 1949 J.J. Prüm Wehlener-Zeltinger Sonnuhr Trockenbeerenauslese, at 200 marks [$50] per bottle, followed by five others at 125-130 marks – all TBA's, a 1911 Rheingau, 1921 Rheinhessen, 1937 Rheingau, 1947 Pfalz, and a 1949 Franken (a Silvaner). A truly drooly browse.

These lines by Heinrich Heine appear on the back cover: "Happy the man who has reached port and left behind the sea and its storms, and is now seated in the peaceful warmth of the good Ratskeller in Bremen." [Sorry I can't do justice to the original]. For more on the Bremer Ratskeller, see Hanns Meyer's Im guten Ratskeller zu Bremen, also published in 1959 [my catalog MNO, item 17].

155. [Wine List]. Jack & Charlie's 21 Wine List. New York: (1959). Printed by the B.R. Doerfler Company on Linweave Vellum paper. 33.5 cm. (82) pages, thumb-indexed in red. Maps and titles in red. Red line borders. Red cloth, gilt lettering and decoration on spine and cover. Acetate dustjacket is rippled. Original slipcase is missing. Nice copy.  

"This is a limited edition of which this copy is Number XIV." [Number of copies printed is not stated]. "This wine list has been produced under the editorial supervision of Maxwell A. Kriendler with the expert assistance of Frank Schoonmaker and Alexis Lichine." The French vineyard maps were published in Lichine's Wines of France, the German maps were scheduled to appear in Schoonmaker's Wines of Germany. The wine list begins with Champagnes and ends with cigars and cigarettes. Most Champagnes are listed at $12.50, but reach $17 for a Moët & Chandon Dom Pérignon. Interestingly, American champagnes are all listed at $7.50 (Korbel, Almadén, Taylor's, Great Western), with the rosé version at $8.00. Red Bordeaux of the 1957 and 1955 vintages, and 1955 red Burgundies are listed, but are not priced, as they are not yet ready to drink. All the great Bordeaux are priced from $9 to $12, regardless of their position in the hierarchy. Exceptional vintages, such as 1949 Lafite or Mouton are listed at $15, 1929 Ausone at $15, and 1928 Margaux and Haut-Brion at $16. Old 19th century Bordeaux are listed, but not priced. The same pattern holds for white Bordeaux and red Burgundies, with the exception of de Vogüé's 1953 Musigny, Grivelet's Richebourg, and Romanée-Conti's Grands Echézaux and La Tache, which went for $15 to $18. The German wine offerings seem rather meager, considering Schoonmaker's collaboration. Italy and Spain have only a limited presence, as was normal for that time of century. American wines were almost exclusively those of Louis Martini and Wente Brothers, all priced at $4. Of the fortified wines, the highest-priced entries ($20) are in the sherry list. Another great wine document, and the maps are useful.

156. [Wine List]. Les Caves du Restaurant "La Vie est Belle." Bruxelles: Ligue Belge des Amis du Vin, (1935). Printed 20 May 1935 by J. Degreve & C^ie, Brussels. 32 cm. (20) pages + 2 color art reproduction plates. Headpiece illustrations. Paper covers are larger than the wine list pages. Wine map of France on cover, in antique style. Big red waterstain splotches on left half of front cover, with transfer to first page of wine list. Stapled paper, with rust stains in gutter throughout. Plates are clean, as is text after page (2).  

Only French wines are listed, with vintages from 1885 to 1934. Prices ranged from 18 francs for a Macon or Blaye or Algerian to around 50 for a second-growth Médoc or a 1923 Gevrey-Chambertin or a non-vintage «Dopff» Alsatian Riesling. The most expensive wine was a 1904 Yquem at 250 francs, followed by a 1928 Romanée-Conti at 180. And you could have ordered a 1921 Cheval-Blanc for a mere 5 francs more than a 1921 «Klipfel» Alsatian Gewurztraminer from Barr (70 francs). Interesting historical wine document.

157. [Wine List]. Relais Gastronomique Paris-Est. Carte des Vins. Edited by Gabriel Lavrut. Engravings and etchings by R. Gautier-Constant and L. Guidot. Introductory poems by J.-M. Eylaud. Paris: (1958). 38.5 cm. (78) unbound leaves, printed on one side. Copper engravings and etchings. Tissue guards for illustrations. In specially made red cloth foldout box with gilt-lettered red leather label. Red waterstains from box affect portions of the right margin of many leaves, especially the title leaf and all tabs. Illustrations and text are not affected except for very limited staining of three illustrations at right edge. Still, an artistic joy.  

The printing of this wine list was limited to 200 copies "de luxe sur vélin B.F.K. de Rives" numbered from 1 to 200. Printed July 12, 1958, by M. Vettiner and G. Visat. Copy number 2 – Pierre Andrieu's copy. Here is an excerpt from Andrieu's preface: "This collection for the oenophile and the bibliophile is the work of a man of faith and love for French gastronomy: Gabriel Lavrut. He has devoted his time to the service of a magnificent idea: to assemble the most fabulous wine library in existence, the one you are looking at. You be the judge as to whether he has succeeded. And when, with care and regret, you slowly close this Bible of the Wine of France you will feel that you have lived a great Dream and have communed with a Soul."

The list is organized under eight headings, each with an etching and a 6-cm wide tab: Burgundies, Bordeaux, Champagnes, Alsace, Miscellaneous wines, Cognac/Brandies/Aperitifs, Porto. For each sub-heading there is an illustrated introductory leaf, followed by the price list(s), although for some wines, the illustration and the price list are on the same leaf (e.g. each Champagne house – Pol Roger, Bollinger, etc. has a separate illustrated leaf with price list). Blank leaves have a background vignette illustration. The first three and last three leaves are full size (without tabs) – title, blank, preface; blank, colophon, blank. Burgundy and Bordeaux each have 21 leaves, Champagne has 11, and the remaining sections have a total of 19 leaves. The most expensive Burgundies listed are Romanée-Conti (De Villaine), at 50,000 francs for the 1911, 40,000 for 1915, and 30,000 for 1935. Bernard's Chambertin 1915 was priced at 30,000 and Latour's 1923 Romanée Saint-Vivant at 28,000. The 1953 Romanée-Conti (Peuchet), by comparison is a mere 9,000. In Bordeaux, the price winners are Mouton 1916 and Branaire 1899, both at 25,000. In Champagnes, Pol Roger brut 1921 and Moët & Chandon brut 1911 were both listed at 30,000 francs. To put these prices into perspective, many wines (obviously all good) were priced at 4-5,000 francs or even less. The only non-French entries in this superb list are in the spirits and Port sections.

158. [Wine List]. Wein-Preisverzeichnis. Weinhaus zum Stachel. Würzburg a/Main: [1970]. Printed by H. Stürtz, Würzburg. 27.5h x 34w cm. (10) pages, including covers. Each page is dominated by highly decorative engraved illustrations, with wine & grape themed borders. Stapled paper. Back cover streaked with red from contact with another book. Light waterstaining along top edge of front cover. Staples rusted.  

This is the price list of an old wine bar in Würzburg, established 1413. Page (2) has the contents of the original sale certificate, in which a fellow named Fritz, offers this property for sale, with everything pertaining to it – above, below, in front and behind, with all its rooms and cellars, nothing excepted, etc. – for two hundred Rhenish guilders. The document is witnessed by Eberhart von Randersacker, etc. and is dated "after the birth of Christ fourteen hundred years and in the thirteenth year on the Friday following mid-Lent" [i.e. April 7, 1413]. The next page lists wines for sale by the glass, including one non-German – a Beaujolais reserve. The next two pages list Franconian wines, followed by one page for the Palatinate, another for Nahe, Mosel and Rhine, and finally a page for red wines (5 French, 2 German) and sparkling wines (all German). The last page (9) has a decorative Franconian wine map. The "Stachel" [=thorn or spine] is by no means the oldest tavern in Europe. It is listed ninth on a list of "gastronomic establishments" I saw, on which the oldest entry is dated 1126 (Austria), followed by others in Germany, France and Switzerland. The Ratskeller in Bremen is seventh (1405). The author of the list excludes old buildings that were converted to gastronomic use later on, and makes no claim to completeness. Great Britain is conspicuous by its meager representation. The date of the present wine list must be 1970, since it was purchased in 1970, and the most recent vintage listed is 1969.

159. (Wine Mine). Wine Mine. [Five issues]: Summer 1966, Winter 1967, Summer 1968, Winter 1968, Winter 1969. Edited by Anthony Hogg. London: Peter Dominic, 1966-69. Printed by Hazells Offset, Slough, Bucks [first 2 issues]; then by Woodford Litho, South Woodford. 21 cm. 144 to 160 pages each issue. Photo and other illustrations, maps, wine lists, advertising. Illustrated paper. Worn, and some internal rippling and loose bindings, but clean.  

A magazine produced by Peter Dominic, London wine merchant, published annually from 1959 to 1962, then twice a year. Each issue includes articles on wide-ranging wine topics, together with a catalogue of wines for sale by the firm. Contributors include Cyril Ray on Château Lafite, André Simon on collecting wine books, Anthony Hogg on the Douro, Alec Waugh on "why I have tried to be a wine connoisseur," Edward Hyams on wines away from wineland and on drinking on the move, Denzil Batchelor on murder in the glass, etc. For stamp collectors, there is an illustrated article on Wine Philately by Terence Prittie [Summer 1968]. The magazine was published from 1959 to at least 1975. An anthology of Wine Mine was published in 1970 in book form, drawn almost entirely from the years 1960-1965. These five issues are a small sampling.

160. (Wine Trade Club). Wine & the Wine Trade. Part III. [Part IV]. Five lectures delivered to wine trade students at Vintners' Hall, London, and at Birmingham, in Spring, 1948. [1949]. Published for the Education Committee, Wine Trade Club. London: Wine and Spirit Publications, 1950. Printed by Palmer, Sutton & Co., London. 21.5 cm. [Part III]: (5), 52, (2) pages; [Part IV]: (3), 55, (1) pages. Map. Stapled paper. Covers worn and torn, internally rippled and wrinkled. Part IV also has waterstains and soiling. Really very poor. For reference only.  

Part III includes articles on Bordeaux White Wines by Guy Prince, on French Vermouth by J.U. Salvi, on Madeira by A.J.B. Rutherford, and Italian Wines by F. Rossi. In Part IV, Austin Hasslacher writes on Rhine and Moselle Wines (with map), Jean Rossigneux on White Burgundy, and J.A. Metcalfe on Rum.

161. (Wisconsin). Transactions of the Wisconsin State Horticultural Society, including addresses and papers presented, and proceedings of the summer and winter meetings, for the year 1884-5. Vol. XV. William Trelease, Secretary. Madison, WI: Democrat Printing Co., State Printers, 1885. 22.5 cm. xxiii, 278 pages + 2 plates. Illustrations. Black cloth, gilt title on spine. Covers washed out from water contact. A waterstain runs through a number of pages in right upper margin, away from text. Otherwise a solid copy.  

In "Grape Growing for Farmers" [pages 98-101], C.A. Hatch says about the Concord that it has been called "the grape for the million" so long that it has become monotonous "… and we think that if any horticultural society were to offer $50 reward for an essay on grapes in which the Concord was not called the grape for the million it would be safe; the money would be untouched …" But then he calls the Worden, a seedling of the Concord, the grape for the billion. Grapes are extensively covered from pages 172-208 under these headings: notes on grape varieties, grapes for the novice (planting, training, layering), raising grape-cuttings, pruning the grape, the grape rot, bagging grapes, fertilizers for grapes, grape sayings, grape dodder.

162. (Wisconsin). Transactions of the Wisconsin State Horticultural Society, including addresses and papers presented, and proceedings of the summer and winter meetings, for the year 1886-7. Vol. XVII. H.C. Adams, Secretary. Madison, WI: Democrat Printing Co., State Printers, 1887. 22.5 cm. xxiii, 279 pages + 2 plates. Black cloth, gilt title on spine. Covers have a couple of small holes in the cloth and there is some staining along outside edges. Hinges are splitting inside covers. But internally very clean and solid.  

The writing in these pages does not reach the level of most agricultural reports. But there are some vaguely interesting ramblings on historic records of grapes in Europe and Asia. In the year 81, "Domitian fearing a scarcity of corn, as so much of the land was occupied by vineyards, issued a restrictive or prohibitory edict which was long continued in force through fear that the abundance of fine wine might tempt the Barbarians of the north to invade the country." [page 70]. J.B. Stickney was asked to present a paper on California fruits, but he protested that his knowledge was imperfect. "If I should say something that is not so and if our volumes should go to California, it would be very unpleasant." His report includes observations on grapes and wine in California [44-48]. There are a few other scattered references to grapes.

163. (Wisconsin). Wisconsin State Horticultural Society Transactions. Including addresses and papers presented and proceedings of the summer and winter meetings, for the year 1887. Vol. XVIII. B.S. Hoxie, Secretary. Madison, WI: Democrat Printing Co., State Printers, 1888. 23 cm. xx, 288 pages. Bookplate of Montreal Horticultural Society and Fruit Growers Association of the Province of Quebec. Black cloth, gilt title on spine. Back cover has a couple of small holes in the cloth and there is a little staining along outside edges. Hinge is splitting inside back cover. Internally very clean, except waterstain along margins of endpapers, almost gone at title page.  

The grape varieties currently recommended for general cultivation are Moore's Early, Worden, Concord, Delaware, Brighton; for frosty and otherwise unfavorable locations: Janesville, Champion [page x]. Wm. Fox of Baraboo, WI talks about grape culture, followed by a discussion [57-63]. In her article "What Some Farmers Do Not Know" [122-132], Mrs. A.J. Clark says: "Although I fully believe that most women know more about all kinds of farming than most men, as is shown by the notorious fact that widows are invariably the best farmers in the whole community – yet I do not propose to go into a general discussion in regard to running the whole farm …" She devotes a page to "details of vine culture." Mr. Mould of Baraboo submits a short piece on "The Grape" [203-204]. In "The Raising of Seedling Grapes, and Care of the Vine" [221-224], Wm. T. Sterling of Mt. Sterling advises: "If birds depredate on your fruit use the shot gun. If boys steal your grapes don't call the dog … take [the boy] to the vineyard, show him the vines, tell him all about their cultivation, give him all the grapes he wants to eat, a bunch or two to put in his pocket and take home and that boy will not be very apt to steal your fruit." And there are several more entries on grapes.

164. (Wisconsin). Transactions of the Wisconsin State Horticultural Society. Annual report for the year 1888, including addresses and papers, with verbatim discussions specially reported, together with reports from county societies. Vol. XIX. B.S. Hoxie, Secretary. Madison, WI: Democrat Printing Co., State Printers, 1889. 23 cm. xvi, 240 pages. Illustrations. Black cloth, gilt title on spine. Spine has a small hole in the cloth and there is a little staining along outside edges of the covers. Hinge is starting to split inside covers. Internally clean, except browning, mostly at top margin. Paper is brittle.  

A talk on "Grapes in Wisconsin" by Wm. Fox of Baraboo covers grape varieties and advice on growing grapes [pages 104-118]. Other references to grapes appear in the District reports, one of them from the Grand Chute Horticultural Society, which held a grape festival: "All our members are interested in grape culture." [171]. There are two articles on California, the first by J.M. Smith of Green Bay [president of the Horticultural Society]: "Shall the Man of Moderate Means Go to California to Grow Fruit" [29-36]. The answer is no – land prices are too high. "A large portion of the state is now owned and controlled by men who obtained immense tracts of land at a merely nominal price. In fact most of the land in the state was at that time considered nearly worthless for horticultural or agricultural purposes. It was known that grapes would grow in nearly all parts of the state …" But prices were high because fruit was imported. And although fruit is now grown everywhere, prices remain high. Smith asked a gentleman who had moved from Wisconsin to California in 1845, whether he would advise Smith to make the move. The advice was "stay where you are and advise your friends to do the same." The second article is by Mrs. J.M. Smith: "Some Glimpses of California as it Appeared to a Wisconsin Woman" [71-83]. She gives us a very interesting account of her visit and the great hospitality shown by her hosts. But again, with costs so high, a poor person could not make it there. Regarding wine: "Some people say that California wines are just as wholesome as tea and coffee, and ought to be used by everyone; but I heard some things while there, which would deter me from wishing for any connection with the wine business. Such, for instance, as a father and family of sons who went into wine-making and in the course of a few years all dropping into drunkards' graves, leaving the broken-hearted mother soon to follow them." The visitors saw a redwood forest, and in Santa Rosa they "visited a church that was said to have been built entirely … of one redwood tree. Of course we do not vouch for the truth of the statement." Although she found California very attractive, Smith says that "after getting all the information I could from the enthusiastic Californians, who seem to believe most sincerely in their state …, I have no hesitation … in giving a decided preference to Wisconsin."

165. (Wisconsin). Annual Report of the Wisconsin State Horticultural Society. Embracing the full proceedings of the meeting held at Sparta June 19-20, 1889; also the annual meeting held at Madison, February 4-7, 1890, together with reports from committee on observation, etc., etc. Vol. XX. Prepared by B.S. Hoxie, Secretary, Evansville, Wis. Madison, WI: Democrat Printing Co., State Printers, 1890. 23 cm. 257 pages + frontispiece portrait of Peter Henderson. Illustrations. Black cloth, gilt title on spine. Small stains on outside edges of covers. Hinge splitting inside back cover. Internally clean.  

William Fox's remarks on grapes – location, varieties, planting, pruning – are followed by a discussion [pages 20-25]. In one of the discussions, Mr. Harris said: "I have been engaged in the growing of grapes some twenty-five years. I learned grape growing from a German down on the Rhine. I gradually abandoned the practice which he taught me. I have found that one-half the grape literature is a humbug …" [74]. He goes on to say that he doesn't practice what he teaches – for one thing, "the practice of trimming or close pinching and summer pruning" which he says is half the cause of black rot and mildew. Charles H. Greenman is identified in his obituary as "the chief propagator and introducer of the Janesville grape" [213]. The grape varieties recommended this year for general cultivation are Moore's Early, Worden, Concord, Delaware, Brighton, Early Victor and Telegraph; for problem areas, Janesville Champion, Moore's Early, Early Victor and Ulster's Prolific; for trial, Niagara, Lady, Wyoming Vergennes, Lindley and Duchess [10]. The report from Waukesha County lists prices of grapes per pound (10-pound baskets): Concord 2-3 cents, Delaware 4-6 cents, Brighton and Rogers' #4/9/15/19 5-6 cents, Catawba 6-8 cents [227]. As for fruit production in Wisconsin, apples led by a wide margin – over a million bushels, versus 57,000 for strawberies, and grapes next at 35,000 [249]. There are other scattered remarks on grapes. Also of interest is the fact that seven of the articles in this report were contributed by women. "… we encourage the ladies to attend and take part in our meetings and read papers. This is one thing that has given the Wisconsin Horticultural Society the reputation we have." [87]

166. Wister, Owen (1860-1938). Watch Your Thirst. A dry opera in three acts. With a preface by Samuel Johnson. Illustrations by George Howe. New York: The Macmillan Company, 1923. Press of J.J. Little & Ives, New York. 28 cm. (2), viii, (1), 175 pages + 8 full-page portraits – Minerva, Bacchus, Venus, Cupid, Zoë Moo, Jupiter, Ganymede, and Juno. Top edge gilt. Blue cloth, gilt titles and decoration on spine and cover. Embossed sunken image of a drinking glass. Covers worn and rather washed out, hinges cracked inside covers. Internally clean.  

Limited autographed edition of 1000 copies, of which this is number 721. A play about the gods on Mount Olympus debating the enactment of Prohibition. Jupiter's wife Juno is "queen of the Home" and principal supporter of Prohibition. Her secretary Minerva is a reluctant supporter who sees the downside and plays devil's advocate. They sing the Prohibition hymn:

Millions of victims have planted the vine
Nobody told them the evils of wine
Nobody said it would turn them to swine
---------------------
Wine-bibbers gladly renounce their pursuits.
Oranges, lemons, and all citrus fruits
Offer them excellent, safe substitutes.
---------------------
Down with all brandy and whisky and gin,
---------------------
Let the kingdom of soft drinks and syrups begin." [pages 34-37].

Enter Jupiter, with Venus and her brat Cupid. As soon as Juno and Minerva leave, out come the bottles. Jupiter goes off to earth to visit Greece in search of the good stuff. He finds a mortal named Ganymede with a good supply, tears him away from his lover Zoë Moo, after having made a pass at her, and brings him to Olympus as a butler. Venus promptly lusts after Ganymede, especially after drinking her new butler's instant spiked postum. The other gods see that Venus is now "no better than she should be." Before things get out of hand Zoë Moo arrives to rescue her lover and Juno pours herself a glass of "denatured nectar." On the way, we learn that "more are drunk to-day than used to be, and many are drunk who never drank before." And: "I suppose a god has to be behind the times." [112]. Also, Bacchus informs Juno that "they publish part of your report, showing that everyone who has ever swallowed a drop of alcohol has either produced defective children, or has become a murderer, or has died of cancer." [134-135].

Owen Wister was born in Germantown, PA, the son of a physician. After graduating from Harvard, he studied music at the Conservatoire in Paris, but lost interest and returned to Harvard for a law degree (1888). He practiced law for a few years, then devoted himself to writing. His most famous novel was The Virginian (1902), which had sold 1.5 million copies by the time of his death. The novel helped establish the cowboy as an American archetype, following along the lines of earlier works of James Fenimore Cooper, who had created the Western myths, subsequently popularized by Zane Grey. Wister's book was dedicated to his friend Theodore Roosevelt.

167. Woelke, "Eddie." The Barman's Mentor. A new handy reference book and encyclopedia for professionals, and a guide for others, who desire to mix drinks properly and serve wines, liquors, etc., with maximum pleasure-giving results. By "Eddie" Woelke of the Hotel Weylin Bar (New York), in collaboration with Stafford Brothers, authors and publishers of "One Hundred Ways" – the intriguing and popular work on gin, applejack, etc. Notice: to those interested, it will pay in enjoyment and otherwise, to examine the contents of this work. New York: Stafford Brothers, 1936. 18.5 cm. (6), 106 pages. Photo and other illustrations. Photo portrait of Woelke in action, page 1. Small corrections to some recipes neatly inscribed in ink. Flexible dark blue binding, title in silver on cover: "The Barman's Mentor – for professionals, private bars and home use." Internally clean, with some rippling, brown stain at top of front pastedown.  

This booklet begins with hints to barmen, proportions, glassware, bar utensils, bars and equipment [pages 3-28], and goes on to wines [19-26], and finally recipes for cocktails and mixed drinks. Woelke had a distinguished career in bartending, beginning with the Germantown cricket Club in Philadelphia, then the Bellevue during "part of the ‘Gay Nineties’," after which he went to the Hotel Athénée in Paris. During its renovation, he was at the Royal in Nice before returning to the renamed Plaza Athénée. He returned to New York, first to the Beaux Arts, then to the Knickerbocker and Biltmore hotels where he remained until Prohibition, when he moved to the Casino Naçional in Havana. [from preface by John Boyle Stafford, dated at New York, November 1936]. "While in Havana, he received ‘La Corona,’ in recognition of his being the only man ever known to have prepared one million drinks from Ron Bacardi. In 1930 Eddie took first prize in an important mixing contest held in Havana. Pictures of this affair were taken by Fox Movietone News and widely distributed." [page 104]. A photo appears on page 105.

168. Wolff, Christian. Riquewihr: son vignoble et ses vins à travers les âges. Avec la collaboration de F. Zeyer, président honoraire de la Société d'Archéologie de Riquewihr. Société d'Archéologie de Riquewihr, XXIII^e Bulletin. Ingersheim: Société Alsacienne d'Expansion Photographique, 1967. Printed by SAEP, Colmar-Ingersheim, 31 January 1968. 22 cm. (half title leaf), 265, (1) pages, including 8 glossy plates in color and b&w. Maps and illustrations. Erratum slip advising that page 13 should read 23, and vice versa – a printing error. Linen cloth, gilt decoration on cover, gilt title on black background on spine. Covers lightly worn, with title on spine partly rubbed off. Internally clean.  

Fifty copies "de luxe sur vergé blanc" numbered 1 to 50, and 10 copies not for sale numbered I to X. This copy is numbered "31" on half title. A detailed historical study of the vineyards and wines of Riquewihr, regarded as the pearl of the Alsatian wine country, and one of its oldest towns. There are records of vineyards in Riquewihr as far back as 1094. By 1291, Riquewihr was protected by walls, and was mentioned as a town in records dated 1321. Its surviving architectural wealth, some of it dating back to the 15th century, makes Riquewihr perhaps unique in the world. In this scholarly study, Wolff presents a wealth of historical information on Riquewihr as a wine-growing area. In addition to political history, he covers all historical aspects of wine-growing, including grape varieties, viticulture, harvest and vinification, vintages, wine types, brandies, consumption, taxes, export. There are interesting details, such as a color plate showing the layout of the vineyard plots in 1763, or names of proprietors from 1300 to 1760 [pages 27-32], or sales of "seigneurial" wines from 1546 to 1637 and export destinations [189-193]. An important book for the wines of Alsace.

169. Woodin, G.B. All you need to know about Wine, with illustrations by Chrystal Corcos. Mount Vernon, NY: Peter Pauper Press, (1969). 19 cm. 62 pages. Color illustrations. Pictorial boards with a couple of tiny nicks. Matching, worn dustjacket.

In ten minutes, you get an overview of all the major wines of the world, plus a little bit of wine cookery and mixed wine drinks. The author makes the obligatory remarks about German wine labels – "the morass of words."

170. Wright, F[rederic] B. A Practical Handbook on the Distillation of Alcohol from Farm Products, including the processes of malting; mashing and mascerating; fermenting and distilling alcohol from grain, beets, potatoes, molasses, etc., with chapters on alcoholometry and the de-naturing of alcohol for use in farm engines, automobiles, launch motors, and in heating and lighting; with a synopsis of the new free alcohol law and its amendment and the government regulations. Second edition, revised and greatly enlarged. New York / London: Spon & Chamberlain / E. & F.N. Spon, Limited, 1907. 19 cm. xii, 271 pages + 8 plates, of which 7 are fold-outs. Illustrations. All plates and illustrations are indexed. "Formula to Salidify [sic] Alcohol" (10 lines) stamped on endpaper twice. Red cloth, title in white on spine and cover. Spine washed out, Covers waterstained along top edge and lower outer corners. Inner hinge at back cover weakening. Internally clean except for light waterstain at top margin above text, beginning around page 160 to end.  

The title pretty well summarizes the contents of this technical treatise. The preface to the first edition is dated October 31, 1906. The preface to this second edition is dated August 1, 1907. The demand for this information was triggered by the passage of the Free Alcohol Act of 1906, which is reproduced at the end of this book [pages 225ff], together with the amendment of March 1907. This act spelled out the regulations to govern the preparation and use of de-natured alcohol for industrial use. The author obtained from Vulcan Copper Works of Cincinnati, and Geo. L. Squier Manufacturing of Buffalo, permission to use illustrations of modern American distilling apparatus. This book was reprinted a number of times and paperback reprints were published as recently as 1994. It is listed as a text (together with Monzert's Practical Distiller and Hirsch's Manufacture of Whiskey, Brandy & Cordials), by a company that sells distilling equipment.

171. Wright, Helen S[aunders] (1874 – ) (compiler). Old-Time Recipes for Home Made Wines Cordials and Liqueurs from fruits, flowers, vegetables, and shrubs. Boston: Dana Estes & Company, (1909). The Colonial Press, C.H. Simonds & Co., Boston. 22 cm. 156 pages. All pages have monochrome decorative borders and background. Printed on heavy paper. Top edge gilt. Brown cloth, gilt titles and black decorations on cover and spine. Spine washed out, extending to spine edge of back cover. Slightly bowed. Internally clean, except some light waterstaining at inside upper corner above text on about a third of the pages.  

The author's inspiration for this book came from a visit with friends in a New England village. "The social customs of this Adamless Eden were precise and formal … Cake and wine were invariably served as a preliminary warning toward early departure. Here came in my first acquaintance with many varieties of home-made wines … Vulgar curiosity made me bold to inquire the names of a few … [My] gentle hostess broke strict rules of etiquette and invited me to linger …" [page 12]. Wright begins with general directions for making wine, followed by recipes for everything from balm and birch and blackberry to cowslip, daisy and dandelion, to sage and scurvy-grass and whortleberry wines. Even grapes and raisins get several recipes each. There are also recipes for various simulated wines, such as champagnes (American, British, and English) and port wine (no-name and British). And there are separate sections for brandies, cordials and liqueurs. All concoctions are listed in the index.

Daughter of an admiral, Wright was born in Washington, educated in Paris, as well as public schools and the Corcoran Art School in Washington. She was a member of the DAR and of the Royal Geographic Society of London. This was Wright's first book. Later books included The Great White North (1910) on polar exploration, New England Cook Book (1912), The Seventh Continent (1917) on the discovery and explorations of Antarctica, Voices of the World (1930) (poetry), and more. She is listed in Who Was Who (1969-1973).

172. (Württemberg). Württembergisches Wein-Brevier. Stuttgart: Schwabenwerk, n.d. Printed by Ungeheuer & Ulmer, Ludwigsburg. 17.5 cm. 80 pages + 2 glossy photo plates. Five wine maps. Paper. Back cover waterstained, rest clean.  

3. Auflage. No date listed, but no later than 1965. A compact guide to the vineyards and wines of Württemberg, home of the old wine school in Weinsberg (near Heilbronn). These wines are not well known outside Germany, or even outside Württemberg. Included in this guide are maps of the regions, grape varieties used, wine terminology, humor, commerce, lists of wine cooperatives and associations, etc.

173. Younger, William (1917-1961). Gods, Men, and Wine. With a foreword by James Laver. The Wine and Food Society. London: Michael Joseph, (1966). Printed and bound in Hungary. 25.5 cm. 526 pages + 8 glossy color plates. Illustrations. Bibliography pages 477-505. Decorated endpapers. Burgundy cloth, gilt lettering on spine on black background. Dustjacket worn and rippled. Internally clean but a little wavy from dampness.  

An oft-cited monumental study of wine in human history, beginning with ancient Egypt, and on through Greece, Rome, the Middle Ages, the Renaissance and ending with the Victorian era. Younger justifies his opening chapter ("Vintage on the Douro") on the fact that the Douro vintage is one of the most "open" of vintages: "In many vineyards … the drama is not open and visible … But in order to comprehend what man has done to wine during the six thousand years of wine history … one must first comprehend the whole act of vintaging … … There is a second reason for my choice. The vintage of the modern Douro brings one closer than any other to the feeling of antiquity." Actually this was a rather clever way to get the attention of his English audience – leading them through their favorite wine up the arduous path to ancient history. As one might expect in a work of this kind, there are many facts, mixed with a good dose of speculation, most of it quite interesting. Supporting appendices include lists of the wines of Egypt, Greece, Rome and later civilizations, as well as measures and currencies they used. An extensive bibliography completes this masterful study.

The US edition, also published in 1966, is identical except for an added chapter on Wine in America by John N. Hutchison, who had also contributed the chapter on the Americas in Simon's Wines of the World. Although Younger had completed this work, he did not live to see its publication. His wife Elizabeth holds the copyright, and acknowledges the help she received in preparing the manuscript for publication. Younger's first published works were books of poetry, and he subsequently published "thrillers" under the pseudonym of William Mole, one of which, The Hammersmith Maggot became a best-seller. He and his wife also collaborated on a travel book on Portugal [from dustjacket blurb]. Judging from the many dealer offerings of both the English and American editions, this is by no means a scarce volume, which detracts in no way from its importance in the wine literature. [Note: purchaser will also receive a photocopy of the Hutchison chapter from the US edition].

174. Yoxall, H[arry] W[aldo] (1896-1984). The International Wine and Food Society's Guide to the Wines of Burgundy, by H.W. Yoxall, Commandeur de la Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. With line drawings by Laurence Scarfe. London: The International Wine and Food Society – Michael Joseph, (1968). Printed by A. Wheaton & Co., Exeter. 24 cm. 191 pages. Headpiece illustrations. Maps. Decorated endpapers. Green "vinyl" cloth, gilt title on spine on black background. Fine, in dustjacket with curled edges.  

©1968. First edition. Yoxall says of this book in the preface: "I feel that the time is ripe for such a publication, if only because burgundy – or at any rate its finer crus – has been overwhelmed in the popular mind by the sheer volume of bordeaux … Burgundy, in my opinion, is very much misunderstood in Anglo-Saxon countries, where it is regarded as a heavy wine. It is a full wine, but not heavy …" Yoxall's book is a comprehensive study of Burgundy and provides much interesting detail on all aspects of this wine, from Chablis to Mâcon: the wine trade, the grapes, the vineyards, Hospice de Beaune, wine-making practices such as chaptalization, and more. The US edition was published by Stein & Day, and there were London (1978) and New York (1980) second editions, as well as a Penguin edition in 1974.

Yoxall joined Condé Nast Publications in 1921 and served as chairman 1957-64. He was chairman of the International Wine and Food Society 1972-75. Other books by Yoxall ranged from Modern Love (1927) to The Enjoyment of Wine (1972). Noling and Gabler list his Women and Wine: the Saintsbury Oration; privately printed, 1954, 9 p. Yoxall also wrote under the pseudonym F.H. Partington.

175. Y-Worth, W[illiam]. The Britannian Magazine: or, a New Art of Making Above Twenty Sorts of English Wines, viz, of Apples, Pears, Peaches, Cherries, Plums, Sloes, Damasins, Quinces, Figgs, Goosberries, Mulberries, Currens, Blackberries, Elderberries, Roses, Carnations, Cowslips, Scurvy-grass, Mint and Balm, &c. More Pleasant and Agreeable to the English Constitution than those of France. With the Way of making Brandy and other Spirits: As likewise how to make Artificial Clarets, Rhenish, &c. The Third Edition. To which is added, The Foundation of the Art of Distillation; Or the true and genuine Way of making Malt into Low-Wines, Proof-Spirits, and Brandy-Wines, compliant to the late Act of Parliament concerning Distillation. By W.Y. M.D. London: Printed for N. Bodington, at the Golden Ball, in Duck-Lane, (1691). 15.5 cm. (44), 133, (15) pages. [Collation by signature: A through H, each 24 pages = 192 pages]. Modern light brown leather binding, gilt title on dark brown leather label on spine. Binding is broken and shows some water-spotting – back cover detached. Internally clean with light foxing. A few pages have minor chips, second last leaf has a small torn piece in upper inner corner, and last leaf has tears at bottom and some wrinkling. No loss of text, though on some pages text is a bit pale. The binding looked better than it was – it was much too tight, squeezing inner margins, so that it was a candidate for a better binding even before the damage occurred.  

The book begins with "Dr. Worth's Letter in Answer to W.R. Gent. In which the Foundation of the Art of Distillation is handled, being a Key to the following Treatise" [pages (3) to (10)]. Worth says he "need not make any Apology to the Distillers concerning the publishing the Grounds of that Art, seeing 'twas with a design to serve the Publick." Apparently the distilling interests felt he was encroaching on their turf. Next comes a long introduction by Worth "to the Friendly Reader" [(11)-(42)] – really a long moralizing sermon on the role of man in the world, beginning with the garden of Eden, the benefits of temperance, the evils and various forms of intemperance, the wonderful benefits of the author's spagyrical [=alchemical] remedies. The introduction is signed: "W. Y-Worth, Geboortigh Van Shipam & Van Rotterdam, Borger. Now Resident at London, June 6, 1691, at the Academia Spagyrica Nova, being Professor and Teacher of the said Art in all its Parts. Vale." Pages (43)-(44) are the table of contents of the treatise, in 8 chapters. Chapters 1 to 7 [pages 1-93] are titled "A New Art of Making Wines, Brandy, &c., a title that is repeated at the head of all pages through the end of chapter 8. Chapter 1: "Of Vineyards, Orchards, and their improvement; with the best way of planting Vineyards, and how to make the Wine, with the Virtues that proceed from the Vinous Growth in General." Chapter 2: "The Spagyrick Way of dissecting Concretes, and the Office of Essences in exalting Wines." Chapters 3 and 4 are on the making of wines. Chapter 5 is on distillation, Chapter 6 covers spirits. Chapter 7: "Of Spirit of Elder, Spirit of Scurvy-Grass, and other big Spirits, fit for China, Japan, and Lack Varnish, with their several Uses. Chapter 8 [pages 94-133], has its own title page: "A General Treatise of the Original of Diseases: Together with their Cure by Spagyrical Medicines. In addition to describing various diseases and their treatment, the author also includes a "Catalogus Medicinarum," with eleven types – spirits, potestates, species, salts, arcana, magisteries & essences, sulphurs, balsams, honey, waters and various pills. Several forms of each type are listed, together with their medical application. The postscript [pages (1)-(11)] offers a preview of "the next impression of this Britannian Magazine" and discusses "Rules in the Exalting Cyder." As a final bonus, Worth tells his readers about "the remaining virtues of the Author's noble and unparallel'd Spiritus Odontlagiacus, or a singular and excellent Spirit for whitening and preserving the Teeth, curing the Scurvy in the Mouth, and preventing the original Cause of the Toothach … For if you scower your Teeth therewith two or three times, they will become purely white, like Ivory; the Mouth being washed therewith, it prevents the growing of the yellow Scales, which usually adhere to the Teeth …" And it cures many more ailments. The last four pages, (12)-(15), have blurbs for 5 books printed for N. Bodington.

I was struck by Y-Worth's definition of wine in chapter 3: "First I shall define Wine to be a spiritualized sulphur, incorporated with a Mercurial Juice, and so exalted by Natures Concoction to its degrees of Purity, according as the internal Spirituality hath Power to act; but the Maturity and perfect Ripeness comes and is perfected by the Aid and Help of the Heavenly Sun, which exhales and detracts the acid and superfluous Moisture …" etc. [24]. Simon, BG #1639. Cooks Books Catalogue 71, #422 had the third edition of 1700.

176. Zabriskie, George A. (1868-1954) (compiler). The Bon Vivant's Companion, or How to Mix Drinks. Containing directions for mixing most of the beverages used in America, with the most popular British, French, German, Italian, and Spanish recipes embracing cocktails, punches, juleps, cobblers, etc., in endless variety. With acknowledgments to The Bartender's Guide - Jack's Manual - Americanus Ebrietatus. Compiled for his friends by George A. Zabriskie. Christmas, 1948. Ormond Beach, FL: "The Doldrums", 1948. 24 cm. xii, (2), 97, (2) pages. Color vignette illustrations. Maroon cloth, gilt lettering on spine and cover. Stain on back pastedown. Internally clean, but rippled from dampness. 

Twelve hundred copies privately printed by George Grady Press, New York, December, 1948, this copy addressed in preface to "Col. Chadbourne" and signed at end of preface "Geo. A. Zabriskie." The first part of the book has recipes for cocktails, the second part for "fancy drinks" of all kinds. Zabriskie recalls a number of theories on the origin of cocktails, but in the end says: "Whatever the truth, the name of the drink was established early enough for its use by Hawthorne in ‘The Blithedale Romance,’ by Fenimore Cooper in ‘The Spy,’ by Hughes in ‘Tom Brown,’ and by Thackeray in ‘The Newcomes’." [page xii] The recipes are interspersed with toasts, anecdotes and wisecracks. Sample: "Roses are blue, / Violets are pink, / Immediately after / The thirteenth drink." About Daniel Webster: "Josiah Quincy describes Webster's grief at the burning of his house because of the loss of half a pipe of Madeira. It is said that Webster went fishing the day before he was to deliver his welcome to Lafayette, and got drunk. As he sat on the bank, he suddenly drew from the water a large fish, and in his majestic voice said: ‘Welcome, illustrious stranger, to our shores.’ The next day his friends who went fishing with him were electrified to hear him begin his speech to Lafayette with the same words." [page 35]. An earlier edition of this book was published in 1933.

George Zabriskie was born in New York City, a descendant of Albert Saboriski who came to the US from Amsterdam in 1662. George was the New York resident director of Pillsbury Flour Mills, a post he retained until his retirement in 1938. He had a number of business interests as well, and for his work in the first world war in food distribution he received recognition from several countries, including the Order of Polonia Restituta of Poland. He was very active in the New York Historical Society, becoming its honorary president for life in 1947. His chief recreation was fishing, his hobby collecting paintings, books and manuscripts. He died in Ormond Beach, FL January 2, 1954. [The National Cyclopaedia of American Biography, 1943-46 and 1958].

177. Zermatten, Maurice (1910 – ). Trésors de Mon Pays – 74. Vignes et Vignerons du Valais. Photographies Jaques Thévoz. Neuchatel: Éditions du Griffon, (1956). Printed by Paul Attinger, Neuchatel, 1956. 25 cm. 20 pages + (48) pages of full-page black & white photos. Illustrated fold-back paper covers. Covers are soiled and there is a small chip at top of spine. Internal rippling from dampness. ]. 

This is a paean, sort of, to the hard life and grim happiness of the vigneron in the Valais. It was the Romans who weaned the Celts of the Valais from their cows and goats to the vine. The author recollects his parents rising before dawn to go down to the vines, and later, when he was old enough, joining them in the arduous trek. This Valais of the right bank [of the Rhône], burned and barren land, defied the courage of men. But, driven by hunger and thirst, they took up the pick, the axe and the saw. They worked their way through the rock, crushed the stones and built a slender arable layer, and terraced the slope to hold the indispensable soil. And out of virtually nothing they created the vine … It is to the vine we owe the vivacity of a people who refuse to be northerners … Standing all day, bent over, in the evening the vigneron would like to remain stooped, his back up in the air, walking on all fours. But what would his wife say? And besides, there may be frost tonight. There wasn't, thank God … But then there are the spraying, the sulphuring, the weeding, the watering. Others might be discouraged, but with us it's a habit … Finally, there's the harvest and the wine, the singing from the walls, the same as a thousand years ago, and then once again the vines go back to rest under the snow … … [a rough sampling in paraphrase and translation]. The suite of photographs tells the same story in pictures, which show the beauty of the vineyards and the harsh realities surrounding them.

Zermatten was born in Saint-Martin, Valais. He is one of the most representative writers of French Switzerland, more particularly of the Valais which is background to most of his novels (1936-1980). He received the "grand prix de l'Académie française pour le rayonnement de la langue française." [Dictionnaire historique, thématique et technique des littératures françaises et étrangères, anciennes et modernes, Larousse, 1986].

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